48 Hours in Tirana — A Weekend in Europe’s Most Underrated Capital
48 Hours in Tirana — A Weekend in Europe’s Most Underrated Capital
We picked Tirana because it felt close enough for a spontaneous weekend, yet still a little off the beaten path—recommended by friends, and spot on.
We landed on Friday afternoon and jumped on a city bus—half chaotic, half charming. Base camp: Bob Marley Hostel downtown. Friendly staff, resident animals, easy vibes, best location for wandering. Very quiet this time of year.
Saturday: Squares, Pyramids & Parks
Skanderbeg Square tells Albania’s story in one panorama—Ottoman, fascist, socialist, modern. The Pyramid, once a shrine, is now an open public space. The graceful Et’hem Bey Mosque nearby adds a calm counterpoint.
We dove into Bunk’Art for a Cold War time capsule—echoes of the DDR and North Korea, yet unmistakably Albanian. Tourists everywhere (Italians, Germans, Asian visitors), all wearing that same “Wait, what happened here?” face.
Later, we slowed down by the lake and in the parks. Tirana is surprisingly livable: bike lanes, mindful drivers, and pedestrian crossings that actually mean something.
Food & Drinks
Breakfast: coffee and pastries from neighborhood bakeries. Simple, buttery, perfect.
Friday Dinner at Fresh Garden, Blloku
We wandered in at random, slightly wary of style-over-substance. Not this time. The menu was enticing with plenty of vegetarian options. I chose the marinated sea bass tartare with avocado and passion fruit, followed by a veal steak with dark beer glaze and truffle fries. Both dishes were brilliant—balanced, beautifully presented, cooked on point.
I’m more the eater than the reviewer, and I’m not great at remembering details. But every now and then a dish lodges itself in my brain and refuses to leave. I still remember a beef fillet I had 15 years ago in a dark alley in Arrecife, and I sometimes dream of Max Strohe’s scallops. The sea bass tartare from Fresh Garden just joined that list.
Saturday Dinner at Mullixhiu
Mullixhiu is the go-to for a modern take on traditional Albanian food. The dining room is quirky—barn-like, with farm tools and straw scattered across the floor—unusual, but warm and cozy. Service was very friendly and attentive, and by now we were used to the staff responding with a big, smiling “Yes!” to my companion’s request for a vegetarian alternative.
We opted for the seven-course tasting menu to discover the taste of Albania. The cuisine felt like someone cross-wired recipes from Turkey and rural Central Europe, then learned to cook at my grandma’s. The sour, milky soup with meatballs was interesting; fli with ox cheek was excellent; and the qifqi (herbed rice balls) were out of this world—an instant entry into my long-term sensory memory. Special mentions to the lovely Albanian red wine and a very good raspberry raki.
Nightlife
Tirana after dark is lively without trying. It took a minute to find spots where we didn’t feel out of place (or, more accurately, where we were actually let in). Legions of good-looking young people everywhere; at times we felt like we might get in the way of their good time. Eventually we found Radio—mellow electronic music, a solid raki selection, and an audience that let us blend in. Later we stumbled into Juliette with live music and a relaxed, international crowd. Somewhere between a toast and a chorus we bumped into a few supporters of SC Paderborn—because the world is small and nights are long.
Vibe & People
Not overwhelmingly open at first—but always smiling back. Great English, attentive service, laid-back energy.
Weekend notes
We noticed mindful drivers, usable bike lanes, and pedestrian crossings that are actually respected. The city wears a mix of fresh plazas and grimey alleys—both honest, both interesting.
Would I Go Back?
Absolutely. Tirana balances approachability with edge—interesting without being staged, friendly without being fake. The kind of city that rewards curiosity in 48 hours or a full week.
Been to Tirana (or elsewhere in Albania)? Drop your tips in the comments—I’m collecting ideas for next time.